It’s Sonja who greets me through her wagon’s window, wide-smiled and enthusiastic. I exchange smiles and words with some friendly faces, young and old, regulars.īoard in hand, I catch a husky accent calling out to me. I head back to my car in excitement, a new skip in my step. That moment of inclusivity was cherished, and still to this day I witness a similar sharing between others (particularly females) in the lineup. For us, our friendship was formed on the day she introduced herself, welcoming me to sit with her on my first day of school. These values perhaps perpetrated for Jos by her Filipina/Australian mix. I feel inspired by the revolution women’s surfing has had, this enriched embrace of grace and femininity and a more inclusive celebration of ourselves. She effortlessly paces her way to the top of her craft, riding her longboard into a sunny honey-drenched peeler, so elegant across the sea surface. It’s one of those bluebird days, the air is crisp and the waves are clean, running spicily for a few hundred metres. I roll into The Pass, the carpark’s starting to fill up and I’m wondering if the girls are still out there. I remind myself I’m actually fond of early morning surfs. Ughh, I peel back my sleepy eyes, I’m determined not to miss another pearly-waved morning. “I love her voice, the slight Finnish twang reminds me how truly magic these moments are.” Sonja and Elise in the morning. Buzzz, the verdict from the girls is in and the waves are sounding lush: “Pass is doing that thing on that same bank we surfed last week, looks super fun, I’m going to head out” I stretch my limbs and roll over, checking my phone through a half-opened eye. Then I remember today is the day the girls were planning an early surf together. I can feel it’s still early and roll over hoping to get back to sleep… It’s a slightly chilly autumn morning and I admit, I love a sleep in. A tremendously loud noise to come from a fluffy little dog, I think. Effortless, even.Ī sharp yowl startles me half awake - my dog Fudge trying to disrupt my beloved sleep. Clem agreed to spend some time filming these women of Byron at play, Elise Trigger agreed to write about their experience, and the result is a beautiful portrayal of a crew who in their own way are evolving surfing’s old social framework into something way more open, inclusive, and fluid. There’s a couple of well-known riders among them, but that clearly wasn’t what mattered here. When Clem Bourke began sending us images of her friends surfing Byron a few months back, it seemed really obvious they were all engaged in something special - a homegrown re-invention of riding waves and sharing the experience.
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